At one South Bay winery, eggs are in for winemaking but corks are out for bottling

We seem to be stuck in a permanent wandering heat dome. If only it would dissipate. This heat makes chillable reds inviting, and Nat Wong of Blade & Talon has two that are worth your attention. The 2022 Ruché from Calleri Vineyard in San Benito has notes of clove, cinnamon and red plum. Renowned winemaker Randall Grahm is quite fond of this variety, which originated in Piedmont in northern Italy and is considered akin to Nebbiolo in its light color and rather firm tannins.

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The other is the 2022 Blade & Talon Rose Madder, a bright carmine-colored blend of cabernet sauvignon, Cabernet Pfeffer and Aglianico, named for its exquisite hue. Head to bladeandtalon.com to order some.

The 2021 Andorinha Touriga by Alamitos Vineyards, located above the Almaden Reservoir in San Jose, has been honored with a prestigious Wine Enthusiast Editor’s Choice award and a score of 92 points. The 2021 Umunhum Touriga Porto scored 93 points, and the 2023 “Laura’s Love” Rosé, a gold medal winner, was named a hidden gem.

In the short time since the Alamitos Vineyards tasting room opened in 2021, they’ve received much acclaim and are already ramping up production to meet demand. They currently have sauvignon blanc, Syrah and Touriga Nacional planted at the estate, and their winemaker, George Troquato, sources fruit from an excellent assortment of vineyards, including cabernet sauvignon from the Saratoga hills and merlot and Malbec from Napa.

Ryan Beauregard of Beauregard Vineyards in Santa Cruz recently kicked the debate over screwcaps into high gear when he announced he had put his entire 2022 lineup under Stelvin closure. No more corks for him, not even for his high-end cabernet sauvignon. And his 2023 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Coast Grade Vineyard, is aged in concrete egg. He’s also made a 2023 carbonic pinot noir from the same vineyard in concrete egg. Carbonic is definitely the trend for summer.

Winemaker Kamee Knutson at Carmel’s Talbott Vineyards is adding some steel to the lineup. Fermenting more chardonnay in steel than barrel and picking a little earlier gives the wines more natural acid and reduces the perception of butterfat. You’ll find this evident in the new 2022 Sleepy Hollow South Chardonnay. She also made a low-alcohol version chardonnay (9.5%), called Luminous, done in 100% steel. Some grapes were picked early for their bright acidity and the remainder at full ripeness, after which the wine was de-alcoholized.

Knutson also made a partially carbonic pinot noir for Talbott: the 2022 South Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir.

Wine events

On Sunday, Aug. 11, 1-2:30 p.m., Wrights Station is holding a pinot noir tasting in its redwood grove in the Santa Cruz Mountains with GM Carol Martin. For more information, visit https://www.wrightsstation.com.

On Aug. 22, Ancora Vino in Los Gatos will feature the wines of Nicole Walsh, whose brand, Ser, emphasizes varietals that speak to her in a particularly expressive way. Walsh, the longtime tour de force behind the popular Bonny Doon brand created by Randall Grahm, sources grapes from some of the oldest vineyards in San Benito County, plus little gems in northern Paso Robles and the Santa Cruz Mountains. One whiff of her Orange Muscat and Vermentino bottlings will have you singing the praises of summer. She also makes a striking Cabernet Pfeffer.

The Monterey County Vintners and Growers Association will hold its annual Vintner’s Celebration on Saturday, Aug. 24, in downtown Carmel-by-the-Sea, 1-4 p.m.  Meet the winemakers and taste great food from local purveyors. Tickets start at $60.54 at Eventbrite.com.

Rustic House Oyster Bar and Grill in Los Altos will host more of their popular walk-around themed wine tastings, where you can taste and purchase a great selection of wines curated by wine director Lynda Newlon. A Pinot Fest is set for Sept. 21, followed by a Champagne walk-around tasting on Nov. 2.

The ROAR winemaker dinner on Nov. 13 will feature four courses curated with wine pairings, hosted by Nick Fanscioni, a fourth-generation family member from the winery in the Santa Lucia Highlands.

All events start at 6 p.m. For more information and reservations, visit https://www.rustichouselosaltos.com/upcoming-wine-events.

 

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