Boar’s Head has expanded its recall of ready-to-eat meat and poultry products to nearly 7 million additional pounds due to a listeria outbreak.“How could this happen?” is a natural question to ask after hearing that nine people are dead and dozens have fallen ill from eating deli meats tainted with listeria, a hardy, deadly bacterium that can survive refrigeration and freezing. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention said that this is certainly an undercount.
But amid the tragedy, Americans should also pause to ask, “How does this not happen all the time?”
The sobering Department of Agriculture inspection reports from a Boar’s Head plant in Jarratt, Virginia, make it clear that the failures are inexcusable. There are repeated citations for noncompliance with crucial rules like avoiding dripping or standing water (which can facilitate listeria growth). But the same inspection reports should also remind us of the extensive efforts — comprehensive regulations and diligent inspectors — to ensure that such failures are scandals rather than everyday events.
The USDA inspectors duly noted that plastic or tarp was covering pipes — signs of a temporary fix to a leak. They noted small pieces of meat residue on food contact surfaces, even if those pieces were as small as one-fifths of an inch long. They noted pooled blood on the plant floor and rancid smells in coolers. They noted if any product was unlabeled. They noted “black moldlike substances” ranging from as small as a pinhead to the size of a quarter on walls. They noted when workers were on their phones while operating equipment. And so on.
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It’s easy for companies to complain about excessive regulation, but consumers shouldn’t forget how hard it is to keep mass-produced food safe. Your food is kept safe quietly, day after day, because of extensive regulations born of experience and science. Eagle-eyed inspectors who notice even the tiniest bit of misplaced raw meat can save lives.
As this tragic listeria outbreak reminds us, regulations don’t work without accountability. When companies shirk their responsibilities, swift consequences should kick in, before someone dies or falls ill. Reports by the USDA so far show there were no enforcement actions against Boar’s Head in the past year, despite these reports. It is unclear what penalties, if any, the company will face. Whatever they are, one can only hope they will deter other failures.
Zeynep Tufekci is a New York Times columnist.
