“Dad, we’re doing one of the first Devil Proof tastings,” says winemaker Jesse Katz, holding a bottle of malbec. “Do you want a taste?”
His father, famed photographer Andy Katz, erupts with a booming laugh. “That’s one of the stupidest questions you’ve ever asked me,” he says, taking a seat behind an empty glass at the tasting table.
People familiar with wine understand the importance of terroir, the French word for earth. The concept extends beyond the soil itself to encompass all the environmental factors that affect the development of grapes and the taste of wine. It’s the sun, the wind, the weather — everything.
So when the young winemaker was looking for a place to put down roots for Aperture Cellars, he didn’t look to the legendary hills of Napa. Instead, Jesse opted for quaint Healdsburg.
One major factor was climate change — the growing season in Napa is getting warmer, drier and more compressed, while the Pacific Ocean breezes make for cooler temperatures in Healdsburg. There’s also profound soil diversity in Sonoma County, more than in all of France, including the cool, moist clay ideal for the Bordeaux-style varietals he champions.
But just as terroir shapes the flavor, aroma and quality of wine, the concept also serves as a powerful metaphor for this father and son, whose shared experiences and influences shaped their lives, deepened their appreciation for complexity, and cultivated a passion for the craft of winemaking.
It’s a journey that began with the vintner’s dad, whose career as a rock-and-roll photographer took him across the globe, shooting album covers and capturing moments for the Doobie Brothers, Dan Fogelberg and other artists. Then, Andy turned his lens to the sprawling vineyards of picturesque locales like Tuscany and Bordeaux, immortalizing some of the most esteemed wineries on earth. Jesse, then a young teen, was along for the ride.
Those trips planted a seed, though, offering an education Jesse wouldn’t have found anywhere else. Amid the beauty of those vineyard landscapes, Jesse developed a deep respect for wine culture and a curiosity for the intricate art and science of grape cultivation.
“It was a true lightbulb moment for me,” he says.
Decades later, the culmination of this journey is Aperture Cellars, where Jesse meticulously crafts the wine, while Andy’s captivating photos adorn both the labels and the walls of the tasting room gallery. Currently, Andy is showcasing work from his pandemic project, “A Walk in the Park,” a photographic journey of more than 60,000 miles in a camper van to capture the staggering beauty of every U.S. National Park.
“I’ve traveled all over the world, but embarrassingly not much in the United States,” he said. “But it turns out all this majesty was right here. It was incredibly fulfilling to explore this land.”
Almost every aspect of Aperture reflects this profound father-son bond and their intertwined past. That includes the acclaimed Devil Proof label, which took inspiration from the family’s adventures through Cuba, when they were captivated by a local saying: “If you live well and drink well, the devil can’t get you.”
Related Articles
30+ Bay Area beer and wine events are on deck this fall
At one South Bay winery, eggs are in for winemaking but corks are out for bottling
Ukrainian winemakers visit Napa Valley to learn how to heal war-ravaged vineyards
Marin-born Springboard Wine expands to spirits
Bouquet of rosés pouring in Los Gatos
Jesse, the first winemaker to be included in the Forbes 30 Under 30 list, a Wine Enthusiast 40 Under 40 Tastemaker, and one of Wine Spectator’s rising stars, has gained a reputation for crafting award-winning wines embraced by oenophiles everywhere. That includes pro skater Tony Hawk as well as Justin Timberlake, who asked Jesse to create a custom blend for his wedding to Jessica Biel. Jesse also made headlines when a bottle of his cabernet sauvignon sold for a record-breaking $1 million, the most expensive bottle of wine ever sold.
However, he remains a hands-on vintner, traversing each row of the vineyards with a discerning eye. He meticulously chews the skins of the grapes, scrutinizes the seeds and delves into the soil’s composition, gauging precisely when to apply stress to the vines and when the optimal moment for harvest approaches. He also attunes his ears to the symphony of the winery, listening intently to the whispers of yeast fermentation, seeking insights into the progression of the wine’s development.
“That’s the art of it,” Jesse says. “That’s why I believe that every bottle here tells a story. And when people can take that home with them, that’s what we’re here for.”
Details: Aperture Cellars offers reservation-only wine tasting experiences ($50-$75 per person) Thursday-Monday at 12291 Old Redwood Highway in Healdsburg. Make reservations and learn more at http://aperture-cellars.com.
For more food and drink coverage
follow us on Flipboard.
