Fall has arrived, which means we’re about to break out in sweater cravings and soup longings. There are all sorts of commercially-made soups out there, from classic chicken noodle to tomato. When the temperature drops, any kind will do, but for something extra-satisfying and robust, mushroom soup is the ticket.
Mushrooms are not only good for us, they deliver intense umami flavor that’s every bit as satisfying as meat.
Great mushroom soup starts with a huge pile of fresh mushrooms and a few aromatics. It’s entirely do-able from scratch — but time-consuming. The alternative is to pick up a jar, carton or can of pre-made mushroom soup.
That said, beware. There’s a lot of bad mushroom soup on store shelves — bland, salty, off-flavored options that bear no resemblance to delicious, homemade soup.
Good mushroom soup — whether it’s a bisque, a puree or chowder-like — delivers fresh-cooked mushroom flavor. Typically vegetarian, a well-made mushroom soup is dense, earthy, robust and satisfying.
Here’s the scoop on the purchased versions to buy, and the bland, mushroom-free slurps that are not worth swallowing. Nutrition info refers to 1 cup of soup.
Zoup! Really Good Soup Portobello Mushroom
This gourmet soup in a jar is a standout. It’s almost better than homemade. It’s packed with tender sliced mushrooms and has a buttery roundness that coats the tongue. 140 calories, 9 g fat, 730 mg sodium, 3 g sugar, 4 g protein. $6.99 for 16 ounces at Sprouts Market. (4 stars)
Amy’s Mushroom Bisque with Porcini
The mound of porcini mushrooms that goes into this chunky soup is impressive. This bisque is deliciously rich, well seasoned and beyond delicious. 110 calories, 6 g fat, 690 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 3 g protein. $4.49 for 14 ounces at Sprouts Market. (4 stars)
365 Organic Cream of Mushroom Condensed Soup
Dark bits of mushroom swimming in white cream sauce make for a fresh, decadent and garlic-forward spoonful. More mushrooms would be a huge improvement. 76 calories, 4 g fat, 672 mg sodium, no g sugar, 1 g protein. $2.19 for an 11-ounce carton of condensed soup at Whole Foods. (3 stars)
Campbell’s Golden Mushroom Soup
This unusual, dairy free soup is made with beef stock and incorporates tomato, but it’s surprisingly good. The bright orange color, thanks to beta carotene, is unnecessary, but the flavors are balanced. 80 calories, 3.5 g fat, 750 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 2 g protein. $1.89 for 10.5 ounces of condensed soup at Smart & Final. (2½ stars)
Campbell’s Heart Healthy Cream of Mushroom Soup
This iconic soup has been on store shelves since 1934 — and is still so popular that the line now includes five diet-sensitive versions, plus several variations on mushroom with roasted garlic. The “heart healthy” version boasts half the fat and salt and delivers big mushroom flavor, despite the dearth of actual mushroom bits. When a recipe calls for condensed mushroom soup, this is the one you want. 70 calories, 2.5 g fat, 410 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 1 g protein. $1.82 for 10.5 ounces of condensed soup at Walmart. (2½ stars)
Progresso Vegetable Classics Creamy Mushroom
Occasional chewy mushrooms are the highlight in this otherwise ho-hum bowl of creaminess. It’s more salty than flavorful. 130 calories, 11 g fat, 800 mg sodium, no fiber, 2 g sugar, 2 g protein. $5.29 for 18 ounces at Raley’s. (2 stars)
Imagine Creamy Portobello Mushroom
This pureed soup has a pleasing balance of seasonings, but it finishes flat thanks to water, water and more water. Less water, more flavor, please. 80 calories, 2.5 g fat, 430 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 2 g protein. $4.99 for 32 ounces at Sprouts. (1½ stars)
Pacific Foods Organic Cream of Mushroom
This is edible, but excessive cream and starch muddle the goodness of the mushrooms. 80 calories, 3 g fat, 640 mg sodium, no sugar, 1 g protein. $3.99 for 10.5 ounces of condensed soup at Sprouts. (1 star)
Health Valley Organic Cream of Mushroom Soup
Flat flavor and gloppy texture make this super unappetizing. It offers a hint of mushroom flavor, but not nearly enough to earn the label. 80 calories, 1.5 g fat, 450 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, 4 g protein. $3.99 for 14.5 ounces at Sprouts. (½ a star)
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Great Value Cream of Mushroom Condensed Soup
A more accurate description for this would be Flour Soup. It tastes like flour mixed with more salt than anyone needs — or wants. This is a huge fail. 90 calories, 5 g fat, 850 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 1 g protein. 72 cents for 10.5 ounces of condensed soup at Walmart. (No stars)
Signature Select Cream of Mushroom
Impostor alert! This murky mashup barely qualifies as food. It smells like dishwater and tastes like flour paste. 60 calories, 2.5 g fat, 700 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 1 g protein. $1.99 for 10.5 ounces of condensed soup at Safeway. (No stars)
Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.
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