Whether it’s Ants Climbing a Tree, Buddha Jumps over the Wall or a recipe whose name translates to “Ignored by Doggy Stuffed Buns,” some Chinese dishes are notable for their quirky names, as well as their savory flavors.
Luckily, Ying Chang Compestine, a Lafayette-based author who grew up in Wuhan, China, is here to demystify the frequently hilarious backstories behind these dishes and teach you how to cook them in a forthcoming graphic novel cookbook. Written by Compestine, “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, and Other Curiously Named Classic Chinese Dishes: A Graphic Cookbook—26 Recipes & Stories” (Chronicle Books, $25) is illustrated by Vivian Truong and set for release March 4.
“Buddha Jumps Over the Wall, and Other Curiously Named Classic Chinese Dishes: A Graphic Cookbook—26 Recipes & Stories” (Chronicle Books, $25)
Compestine is the prolific, award-winning author of more than two dozen books, including novels for children and young adults, such as the critically-lauded “Revolution is not a Dinner Party” and her recent “Growing Up Under a Red Flag,” both set during China’s Cultural Revolution. She has penned several cookbooks, too, as well as children’s books that straddle genres. “A Banquet for Hungry Ghosts,” for example, serves up an eight-course feast of frightening ghost tales and their recipes.
The new graphic cookbook straddles genres as well. “Buddha Jumps Over the Wall” is a graphic novel filled with Chinese folklore, history and recipes for everything from those doggy-stuffed buns — minced pork and veggie-filled buns known as Goubuli Baozi — to Forbidden Fried Rice and Mango-Lobster Spring Rolls.
We recently caught up with Compestine to learn more.
Q: What inspired this cookbook?
A: When I go eat at Chinese restaurants with my American friends, they ask me about the strange names (of some of the dishes). I got tired of telling the same stories over and over. Then, I started doing research and learned that there are so many fun stories behind the recipes. It took me a long time to think about the right format. A lot of the stories are really funny, like a comic book, so I decided do a graphic novel cookbook. I’ve written cookbooks and illustrated children’s books, so I combined the two together.
Q: What fuels your writing? This is your 27th book!?
A: I grew up in China during the Cultural Revolution, when food was rationed. It was a very important part of my life, because I feel I was deprived of food growing up. Food was always on my mind. Almost all of my books have something to do with food, even if it’s a fiction or picture book. This book is my journey from east to west, the history and my personal story of coming to this country. It also combines my passions: food and humor.
Historically, only the emperor was permitted to eat forbidden rice. (Courtesy Vivian Truong/Chronicle Books)
Q: What was it like working with Vivian Truong on this project?
A: She’s based in the UK, and we had Zoom meetings to talk about it. She really captured the humor behind each story. I’m very happy with how this turned out.
Q: This book contains stories from different places and periods of Chinese history. What was your introduction to them?
A: I heard a lot of the stories from my grandmother. If you’ve grown up in China, you know. And other stories I share are personal. When my son was growing up, I taught him about rock sugar pears, and how my grandma used to make them whenever I had a cold to cure my cough. So he pretended he had a cough to get me to make them for him. I also picked stories that go with recipes commonly served in Chinese restaurants in the West.
Q: What’s your favorite story from the book?
A: I like the edamame story. It reminds me of my childhood. When I was growing up, I hated to have to shell soybeans. One time, I tricked my brothers and the older boys into doing my work. I told them I’d found a cute worm inside the edamame beans — when really I’d just found it on the ground — so they shelled the beans to try to find more worms. But it only worked once.
Q: Are there any recipes in the book that you recommend specifically for Lunar New Year?
A: For a traditional Chinese New Year celebration, we have at least eight to 12 dishes, with an appetizer, main course and dessert. If you want to make a Chinese banquet, you can follow the recipes in the cookbook. The dishes are simplified. Living in the Bay Area, I made sure the recipes and the ingredients are accessible. People can just go with their preferences and make their own Chinese New Year party. The mango lobster spring roll is a really good party dish.
During Chinese New Year, dishes should combine many different ingredients. One dish that does this is forbidden rice with eggs and almonds. In the old days, only the emperor was allowed to eat this rice. Today, anyone can enjoy it. This is a wonderful dish to celebrate spring and the New Year with friends. All the ingredients go together and harmonize.
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