It’s the magic behind perfect pizza, heavenly lasagna and decadent meatballs. Italian sausage is not just delicious. It’s a bite of history that dates back to the Roman Empire during the first century BC.
Italian sausage is not complicated: It’s ground meat infused with fennel, garlic, herbs and spices. Sausage recipes vary from region to region in Italy, so it’s hardly surprising to find major differences between brands here, too.
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Italian sausage is made in various styles, including mild, hot and sweet. Hot incorporates chile flakes; “sweet” includes an extra measure of herbs. While some Italian sausages are made with chicken or turkey, the vast majority are made with ground pork shoulder.
Great Italian sausage is juicy and tender, with a generous dose of crushed fennel seed and plenty of basil and oregano, plus hints of paprika, parsley, nutmeg, coriander and garlic. The result is a bite so flavor-dense that just a few ounces can amp up an entire dish. The bad stuff is rubbery or salty with a punch of garlic so powerful, it will be with you for days. The very worst offenders could be mistaken for cheap hot dogs.
Here are details on the Italian sausages that are guaranteed to elevate your next meal — and the ones to avoid. Italian sausage can be sold in bulk, but for this taste test, we stuck with mild or sweet links which can vary in size from 71 to 165 grams. The nutrition information below refers to a 90-gram serving or about one medium-sized link.
New York Style Mild Italian Sausage
This Bay Area-based brand is everything you’d expect of a top-notch Italian sausage. It’s packed with lots of fennel seed and herbs, and its tender, meaty texture makes it seem homemade. Note that its sodium content may sound high, but it doesn’t taste like it. 241 calories, 15 g fat, 837 mg sodium, 22 g protein. $4.89 for a pound at FoodMaxx. (4 stars)
Carando Mild Toscano Italian Sausage
Layers of big Italian flavors, including a dash of heat, make for a terrific link that’s up to the task of flavoring any dish. Less salt would push it to the top of the list. 307 calories, 24 g fat, 757 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 16 g protein. $9.49 for 19 ounces at Safeway. (3½ stars)
Johnsonville Mild Italian Sausage
This popular brand found at most grocery stores is a bit chewy and has some hunks of fat that don’t cook out, but the hit of fennel is a win. 285 calories, 23 g fat, 637 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 26 g protein. $7.99 for 19 ounces at Safeway. (3 stars)
Trader Joe’s Sweet Italian Sausage
Those looking for a sausage with less salt and fat will be surprised by the clean flavor of these links. The herb and spice notes are understated, and the casing is slightly tough, but it’s a good effort. 190 calories, 13 g fat, 440 mg sodium, 15 g protein. $6.49 a pound. (2½ stars)
365 Whole Foods Mild Italian Sausage
Seasonings are lacking in this rather plain, pork-forward sausage, but the texture of crumbled meat is pleasant, and it has a good hit of fennel. 201 calories, 11 g fat, 561 mg sodium, 23 g protein. $6.99 a pound at the meat counter. (2½ stars)
Kirkland Signature Mild Italian Sausage
The price may be right on this huge package, these ultra-processed links do not measure up to the top brands. These sausages not only lack the traditional herbal notes of true Italian sausage, they’re rubbery and too garlicky. 275 calories, 21 g fat, 667 mg sodium, 1 g sugar, 18 g protein. $10.49 for 56 ounces at Costco. (2 stars)
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First Street Mild Italian Sausage
If you’re cooking to impress, best take a pass on this brand. 208 calories, 15 g fat, 771 mg sodium, 4 g sugar, 14 g protein. $4.99 a pound at Smart & Final. (1 star)
Sprouts Sweet Italian Sausage
Forget what the label says and think “garlicky hot dog.” A massive punch of garlic and rubbery texture make this a sausage to skip 271 calories, 23 g fat, 502 mg sodium, 2 g sugar, 13 g protein. $5.99 a pound. (No stars)
Reviews are based on product samples purchased by this newspaper or provided by manufacturers. Contact Jolene Thym at timespickyeater@gmail.com. Read more Taste-off columns at www.mercurynews.com/tag/taste-off.
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