It’s hard to believe that the movie “Sideways” is 20 years old. Also hard to believe: the lasting impact the small but mighty film had on the wine industry, the attention it drew to Santa Barbara County’s wine country and the dramatic rise of pinot noir.
If you somehow missed this Alexander Payne-directed movie, “Sideways” starred Paul Giamatti as pinot noir-loving, merlot-hating Miles and Thomas Haden Church as about-to-be married Jack, embroiled in all the alcohol-fueled shenanigans of a pre-wedding guys trip. The movie, which was nominated for five Oscars — and won for best adapted screenplay — put the Central Coast wine scene on the map. And in the 20 years since it debuted, we have not only watched it on repeat, but felt its ripple effects all the way to the grocery store, especially when trying to buy merlot.
In the movie “Sideways,” Miles and Jack stay at at the old Windmill Inn, just off Highway 101. The Buellton motel has since gotten a major facelift and appealing rebrand as The Sideways Inn. (Photo courtesy Highway West Vacations)
Much has changed over the last two decades, of course, and nowhere more so than in the real-world locations where “Sideways” was filmed, especially in Buellton along Santa Rosa Road. Today, this corner of the Sta. Rita Hills AVA is a very different place. While some of the landmarks immortalized in the movie are as buzzy as ever, there are many new spots to vie for Miles’ attention if he visited today.
If it’s been awhile since you last explored wine country, here’s a weekend itinerary on how to get sideways, 20 years later.
Friday: Get settled
Buellton’s Sideways Inn makes a good home base for Santa Ynez Valley wine lovers and “Sideways” movie buffs. (Photo courtesy Highway West Vacations)
The iconic windmill is still there, but the dingy, wine glass-strewn motel room Miles and Jack shared during their fateful bachelor getaway has been dramatically spiffed up and renamed the Sideways Inn. It’s an affordable, family- and pet-friendly spot with some nice surprises, including free breakfast (local doughnuts delivered to your room!), comfy rooms with warm Edison bulb lighting, a pool and fitness center and the Sideways Lounge with fare from the Santa Ynez Sausage Company food truck out front.
You may have settled in at “Sideways” ground zero, but it’s dinner time, and we’re off to dinner at the Hitching Post 2, a restaurant with such a presence in the movie, it ought to have its own IMDb page. It’s run by Frank Ostini, whose parents founded the original Casmalia Hitching Post in 1952. Ostini and partner Gray Hartley promptly began making wine under the Hitching Post Winery label, and in 2018, opened a tasting room in the historic house next door. The tasting room offers a more casual vibe, with a lunch menu, a big outdoor area and the opportunity to taste through their large roster of wines.
Frank Ostini’s Hitching Post 2 in Buellton was a major presence in the movie, “Sideways.” Now, Ostini has opened a second venture next door — the Hitching Post Winery, a tasting room with casual, alfresco dining. (Visit the Santa Ynez Valley)
Ostini says if Miles walked in today, he’d likely order the Perfect Set Pinot Noir, a premium blend of grapes from the Fiddlestix and Sanford & Benedict vineyards. It pairs nicely with the live-fire barbecue fare, accompanied by an old-school relish tray plus all the sides. Don’t miss the housemade Key lime pie.
Saturday: Wine tasting along Santa Rosa Road
Santa Rosa Road, the first exit south of Buellton, presents a winding route through the hilly east-west geography that makes this AVA so notable, with a plethora of wineries to tempt you along the way.
First, get a base layer in your stomach with brunch at Vega Farm & Vineyard. Nestled at the first bend, Demetrios “Jimmy” Loizides’ Vega makes the perfect entry point for the day, with estate wines and a seasonal food menu inspired by this organic farm. Try the fire-roasted veggies set on a pool of hummus, pine nuts and zaatar. Steve Clifton is Vega’s winemaker, as well as one of Loizides’ great friends, and their partnership has been pivotal.
Ten minutes down the road, you’ll come to Richard Sanford’s Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards. Sanford arrived here in 1970 following his hunch that the transverse geography of the Sta. Rita Hills would bring cooling ocean breezes and create the ideal climate for growing great pinot noir and chardonnay on par with their Burgundian counterparts. He was right. Sanford became a pioneer of California pinot noir and the man who established the Sta. Rita Hills AVA.
A wine tasting at Buellton’s Alma Rosa Winery in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA takes visitors outside to taste wine alfresco. (Courtesy Atlas Imagery)
The wine is lovely, of course, but this stop is also notable as a prominent “Sideways” reference, the original tasting room where Miles teaches Jack the basics of wine tasting.
Sanford Winery was eventually sold, and the Sanfords started Alma Rosa in 2004. Today, new owner Bob Zorich helms the label with female winemaker Samra Morris, the first Bosnian Herzegovinian winemaker in the U.S. She “is a perfectionist,” she admits, and in her eyes, perfection is the 2021 El Jabali — chardonnay and syrah wines made from grapes grown at the estate vineyard named for a wild boar on the property.
Winemaker Samra Morris surveys the vineyards at Alma Rosa Winery in Buellton. (Lena Britt Photography)
The winery’s ranch tour and tasting experience gives you a golf cart or hiking adventure up into the hills, stopping at various vineyard sites and culminating with a cheese plate and more pours down at the ranch house tasting room.
Another 20 minutes along Santa Rosa Road brings you to Lompoc’s The Hilt Estate and its stunning new Howard Backen-designed tasting barn. It’s gorgeous, cozy and inviting, modern and dramatic at the same time. Miles would have definitely approved of the pinot noir being produced under The Hilt label, as well as the Bordeaux and Rhône varietals from sister winery Jonata in Ballard Canyon. They’re owned by billionaire Stan Kroenke, owner of the cult Napa winery, Screaming Eagle, and the LA Rams. Winemaker Matt Dees has crafted wines for both labels for the last 20 years.
The Barn at Lompoc’s The Hilt Estate makes a great stop for Santa Ynez Valley wine lovers. (Courtesy Amber Turpin)
Dinner: Na Na Thai
You’ve had a full day of wine tasting and vineyard hikes. Take it easy now with dinner at Na Na Thai, an easy five-minute walk — or two-minute drive — from the hotel. Open since 2023, it’s a collaboration between chefs Ashley and Nik Ramirez, who are known for their creative take on Thai street food, and James Beard-nominated restaurateurs Greg and Daisy Ryan of Companion Hospitality (Los Olivos’ Bar Le Côte, Los Alamos’ Bell’s).
Every dish here is interesting, showcasing local, seasonal produce in preparations that impress. Try the Southern-style pad thai topped with a puffy omelet and don’t skip the coconut ice cream for dessert.
Sunday: Bites, hikes and little pigs
Fuel up this morning at Little King Coffee, a year-old hot spot with ties to the Companion Hospitality folks. A delicious biscuit sandwich and great espresso drinks attract a steady stream of patrons despite the somewhat unremarkable location on the outskirts of Buellton. Young moms and cute kids abound.
We’re setting out again toward the Santa Rita Hills, but this time on the east side, where you can hike the mile-long Nojoqui Falls Park trail. Beware the slippery dirt slopes and rocky slides that surround the falls area, but once there, take in the 80-foot high rock face. It’s always a sight to behold, even if the falls are just trickling.
Heading back towards Highway 101, stop at Folded Hills Winery to pick up some wine — a grenache crafted by winemaker Angela Osborne, perhaps — browse the farm products and say hello to the mini spotted pigs. Established in 2004, Andy and Kim Busch (of St. Louis beer family fame) purchased this 600-acre property after moving here for polo. (The horse kind, not water polo. Andy was captain of the USA Polo team.) Today, it’s an organic farmstead and estate vineyard.
The 2004 movie, “Sideways,” put California’s Santa Ynez Valley and its wineries and vineyards on the map. Today, visitors flock to wineries — including Folded Hills, pictured — to sample the wines. (Courtesy Folded Hills Winery)
Lunch: Giorgio’s at Parkway
You’ll find this lunch spot somewhere unexpected. In 2022, chef Giorgio Curti opened this Italian restaurant in the back of Parkway Market. “We call this our secret spot,” says a staffer, Gigi, describing the side room that has been transformed into a speakeasy-like space with photos of Tony Soprano.
The subs from the deli counter will tempt — who can say no to an Italianissimo with garlic aioli, Genoa salami, spicy Calabrian salami, thinly sliced tomato, arugula and red onions on a house-baked roll? But you’ll also want to try the perfect Caesar salad, the pastas and pizzas. They make more than 120 pies a day.
Get one to take home for dinner, a perfect ending to a weekend getting sideways in Buellton.
IF YOU GO
Sideways Inn: Rooms start at $115. 114 Highway 246, Buellton; sidewaysinn.com
Hitching Post 2: The restaurant is open Wednesday-Monday at 406 Highway 246, Buellton; www.hitchingpost2.com. Hitching Post Wines is open Wednesday-Sunday next door; https://hpwines.com/.
Vega Farm & Vineyard: Open daily at 9496 Santa Rosa Road, Buellton; vegavineyardandfarm.com.
Alma Rosa: Tastings and vineyard experiences ($75-$100, reservations only) are offered daily at 7250 Santa Rosa Road, Buellton; www.almarosawinery.com.
The Hilt Estate: Tastings ($40 and up, reservations only) are offered Thursday-Monday at 2240 Santa Rosa Road, Lompoc; thehiltestate.com.
Na Na Thai: Open Tuesday-Saturday at 225E McMurray Road, Buellton; nanathaisyv.com
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Little King Coffee: Open daily at 290 Valley Station Drive, Suite 101, Buellton; littlekingcoffee.com.
Nojoqui Falls Park: 3250 Alisal Road, Solvang; countyofsb.org/856/Nojoqui-Falls-Park
Folded Hills: Open daily at 2323 Old Coast Highway, Gaviota; foldedhills.com.
Giorgio’s at Parkway: Open Monday-Saturday at 265 Avenue of Flags, Buellton; giorgiosatparkway.com.
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